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Diamond Cuban Link Chain
A Gentleman’s Guide To Necklaces
These days, it’s become more acceptable for modern men to wear jewellery around their neck. We’ve finally moved on from the outdated associations (notably Mr T and wearable holiday souvenirs) and come to the realisation that a simple chain or pendant makes for a stylish and highly personal addition to any outfit.
Despite what sceptics might tell you, the chain necklace – when chosen and worn correctly – has long been a timeless and masculine adornment. It’s an item that allows the wearer to showcase a little individuality, as well as an appreciation of the finer details, and can even have sentimental meaning.
Here’s Ape’s handy informer highlighting the considerations and brands you need to know when it comes to picking a signature chain.https://2ecd345fcf98027949b362398ee8f9ec.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-37/html/container.html
Gold is undoubtedly the luxury choice here, but with great power comes great responsibility: you need to choose wisely to avoid straying into “tacky” territory. Therefore, leave the oversized, garish chains to rappers and opt for a thinner, more understated design. It’s also wise to opt for the best-quality gold you can (think 14-karat or above) to ensure a richness and depth of colour. That said, for your first foray into necklaces, it’s perfectly acceptable to opt for a sterling silver chain that is gold plated (again, look for 14-karat or above) in order to keep cost down. When wearing, look to set gold chains against darker shades or black to create a sophisticated contrast.
Silver is an effortless, comfortable and classic option when it comes to men’s necklaces and should be considered your safe space. Whilst gold is a brighter metal that demands attention, silver is subtle and works well with a traditional menswear palette of grey, navy blue and olive green. If you value longevity, opt for solid sterling silver rather than “silver-tone” designs, which are typically cheaper to produce and of lower quality.
Size & Length
The thickness of the chain will determine just how much of a statement your new accessory will make. If you’re going for a simple design without a pendant, a thickness of around 2 – 6mm and a length between 18 and 22 inches (finishing just below the collar bone) works well for most men. Pendants, on the other hand, often look best with a slightly longer chain, somewhere between 25 to 28 inches, finishing in the middle of your chest.
To add a pendant or not to add a pendant? That is the question. Those wanting something classic and minimal will steer clear, but it does beg the question: why not? A pendant is the chance to add something personal and intriguing, allowing for a little self-expression. There’s a wide variety of icons and symbols out there, so it’s worth shopping around for something relevant to your taste and personality.
Go To Brands For Men’s Chain Necklaces
Below you will find Ape’s recommended brands for men’s necklaces. Each offers high-quality materials, contemporary aesthetics and are specialists in their field.
One of world’s foremost silver jewellery brands, Thomas Sabo produces high-quality pieces with a touch of rock ‘n’ roll flair. Their iconic skull necklace epitomises this. Made with blackened 925 sterling silver and comprising a punk style lobster clasp, it’s an ideal piece for adding a little edge to your day-to-day looks.
Miami-based brand Miansai is best known for its beaded bracelets, which have become a firm favourite of fashion insiders. Yet the label’s necklaces are just as lust-worthy, offering premium materials and meticulous craftsmanship. Many of the pendants on offer are inspired by the sea, with lobster claws, anchors and marine links particularly prominent, yet their simple 3mm 14-karat gold chain is our pick due to its timeless simplicity.
Launched in 2012 by Adrien Messié and Erwan Le Louër, Paris-based Le Gramme (taking its name from the international unit of measure) is an ethical jewellery maker which specialises in minimalist pieces made from recycled 925 silver, yellow gold, and ruthenium. Each style is named after the weight of its materials and is hand-polished and engraved with the stamp of the master artisan who crafts it, along with its weight and unique serial number signifying its composition and provenance. Its a detail that looks particularly good on its Square Pendant Necklace.
Innovative Japanese brand Ambush are all about creative experimentation and their pieces, as well as their fashion world devotees, reflect this. With a range of unisex designs that channel a distinct Tokyo aesthetic, it’s little wonder that AMBUSH’s necklaces sell out so quickly. Get one whilst you can.
An independent British brand founded in the north east of England, Daniella Draper rose to prominence handcrafting jewellery for the likes of Kate Moss, James Bay and Ed Sheeran. The brand’s Silver Midi Feather Necklace is a delicate pendant necklace channelling peace, wisdom and freedom.
Founded in 1980 by husband and wife team David and Sybil Yurman, their eponymous New York-based brand (featured image, top) sets out to create “wearable pieces of art”. Each piece is designed and sketched by David, with the company then sourcing the finest precious metals and rare gemstones and using some of the world’s best craftspeople to create the end product. A highlight from the current collection is the 6mm link chain in black titanium, which offers a subtle yet distinctive difference against its sterling silver counterparts.
Tateossian is a breath of fresh air in the jewellery world, partly because of its emphasis on male-centric items. They’re also innovative, offering pieces that mix classic materials like gold and diamonds with the unconventional, such as meteorite and copper nuggets. Their sterling silver anchor necklace is a stylish, contemporary take on a design that can often feel a little costume-y.
With pieces meticulously designed in their London Bridge studio, Alex Orso is a modern British brand that concentrates on the understated and minimal. The label’s use of brass is also inspired. Our pick is their simple, cleanly finished gold oval pendant: cast in solid sterling silver and plated in 22kt gold, its high polish is sure to get you noticed.
Another jewellery brand created solely for the gent, don’t be misled by the name (which suggests Nordic heavy metal) – Northskull’s wears are sleek, simple and at an extremely attractive price point. Dog tags and skulls feature heavily in collections, but there’s also interesting shapes and symbolism. Our pick is their Layers Necklace, available in sterling silver and part of the brand’s permanent collection.
Types of Necklace Chains
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Thinking about buying a necklace chain but not quite sure which one suits? We feel you! It can be quite difficult as there is a plethora of choices out there when it comes to necklace chains.
You can narrow down your chain choices by focusing why you’re buying the chain and what type of chain you prefer aesthetically (more on this below). Some chains are predominantly pendant chains, while others can stand on their own. Some look amazing
on women, while others suit men more. For the best places to buy necklace chains, check out our detailed article here. With that said, we have listed the most common types of necklace chains that you need to know about.
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- Anchor/Mariner Chain
- Ball / Bead Chain
- Box Chain
- Cable Chain
- Curb Chain
- Figaro Chain
- Rope Chain
- Singapore Chain
- Snake Chain
- Spiga / Wheat Chain
- Notable Mentions – Chains That Didn’t Make the Top 10 List
- Solid flat mariner chain
- Puffed mariner chain
This is a unique chain that is inspired by the nautical world. Called the Mariner/Anchor chain because of its similarity to the chains connected to anchors, this is a beautiful choice for anyone who is fond of the sea. Or just fond of a sturdy, strong necklace chain in general!
The mariner chain is composed of interlocking ovals, with a bar across the center of each oval, giving it a distinct and intriguing appearance. You can find mariner/anchor chains in a variety of widths. The thicker mariner chains are more popular among men, while smaller, more delicate ones are commonly chosen by women.
Traditionally, mariner chains were flat, but a new trend is the puffed mariner chain. The mariner chain can be worn as a stand-alone accessory while smaller widths can be paired with a pendant for an eye-catching look.
Ball / Bead Chain
A ball / bead chain is composed of a series of tiny beads that are linked together to create a chain. The balls can be either connected very close together or have small spaces in between them to allow for some movement.
Ball chains are commonly worn with dog tags, and gives a cool, street smart look. Ball chains don’t perform well as a stand-alone accessory and look best paired with pendants. The flip side of this beautiful chain is that they tend not to be as sturdy as some of the other chains mentioned here, and can break relatively easily.
The box chain is made of square links, rather than ovals and rounds, which are connected to make a continuous smooth chain. Box chains are a very popular form of necklace chain and worn by both men and women. They are found in a variety of widths, with the wider ones being popular among men.
Box chains are strong and don’t easily break. If a link does break, it can be replaced without difficulty. The chain can also be reattached without the broken link replaced, without affecting the design. You can choose the length of your box chain depending on your preference and to suit your outfit.
Cable chains are among the most basic types of chains and looks very similar to common iron chains. They have been used for centuries for numerous functions, from anchoring ships to creating small and delicate pieces of jewelry.
A cable chain is possibly the most common form of necklace chain used in jewelry and consists of a series of identical oval links that are interconnected to form a functional and beautiful chain. You can find cable chains where the wire has been textured or flattened rather than left round to form a flat version of the chain.
On their own, delicate cable chains aren’t very eye-catching but are perfect when paired with a beautiful pendant. Cable chains are sturdy and because they are uncomplicated, it is easy to fix a broken or misshapen link. However, a cable chain link can sometimes tend to come apart where it’s joined if the chain has not been properly crafted.
This common chain style is a basic, timeless design, made of a series of interconnected, uniform links. These links are designed to lay flat even while interlocked.
Curb chains have been a top choice when it comes to necklace chains, and heavy, chunky curb chains have a masculine touch and are especially popular among men. Smaller, thinner curb chains are feminine and delicate, pairing well with pendants.
Curb chains are very sturdy and are easy to maintain and care for.
This popular type of necklace chain is fairly simple but fancier than cable chains. Originating in Italy, Figaro chains consist of an alternating pattern of flattened links in different sizes. Generally, the pattern is of one long link followed by either two or three shorter links.
Figaro chains are worn by both men and women, making it an ideal gender-neutral design. They’re a sturdy choice as Figaro chains are generally made using thick wire, and it is easy to fix a broken link. However, due to the pattern of the chain, you cannot remove a broken link without replacing it, as it will mess the pattern up.
A rope chain is one of the most beautiful chain types, consisting of a number of metal segments with the pattern twisting around to give the appearance of a real rope. This solid chain is one of the most popular types and is worn around the globe.
Rope chains are among the most durable and heaviest of chain types and possibly the most textural. They are perfect to wear with pendants as they are very strong, whether thick or thin, and don’t easily come apart. Delicate rope chains are perfect when worn with a pendant, while larger chains are ideal on their own, as a statement piece.
Because of the twisting pattern which reflects light from various angles, rope chains tend to be quite lustrous and shiny.
The Singapore chain is a durable and strong design made up of a series of interlinked segments. When stretched out, it is a beautiful and twisting open chain, that moves with almost a liquid touch.
Singapore chains are popularly chosen to hold pendants as they are very strong regardless of width. It is a classic, sleek chain that pairs well with a beautiful pendant and can be worn daily.
It’s easy to see where the snake chain gets its name from; it looks like the body of a snake and moves with a similar flexibility. The snake chain is made up of a series of small rings, either plates or bands, that are connected tightly together to form a smooth, sleek chain. You cannot see the rings of a snake chain, as these are knit close together. Snake chains aren’t very textural, as compared to some other chain types listed here.
Snake chains are somewhat delicate, but they look stunning when paired with pendants. Because of their semi-rigid structure, they don’t tangle easily, nor do they catch on hair or other objects. Snake chains are also easy to maintain and clean, making them a good choice for an everyday accessory.
Spiga / Wheat Chain
Spiga (meaning wheat) chains, are generally made up of twisted oval links, that are plaited together in one direction, to create a delicate and symmetrical chain. A Spiga chain looks like a series of metallic fibers running into each other at their points, creating a beautiful textural appearance. The chain tends to look the tips of wheat stalks, hence the name Spiga / wheat.
This semi-rigid chain is very durable and sturdy and can be worn with pendants or as is. This strong chain has a classic and timeless look.
Notable Mentions – Chains That Didn’t Make the Top 10 List
The following list of chains are not among the most popular, but they’re still worth mentioning. They each have their pros and cons.
- Herringbone Chain: A herringbone chain is composed of connected thin, flat segments of metal. Each segment is bent at the center to create a herringbone shape. The result is a chain that looks solid, has less flexibility and has a statement look.
- Omega Chain: Like the herringbone, the omega chain is also made of flat metal segments connected together. They kink and bend, making them less durable than most other types of chains. However, they look very stylish and are typically worn as chokers.
- Byzantine Chain: These are among the most elaborate and complex chains, with beautiful texture. The links are intricately woven to create a textured look. The chain also alternates in direction, with links alternating from left to right.
- San Merco Chain: This distinct style of chain isn’t well-known but is easy to recognize. Each link is slightly oval in look, like a grain of rice. Each link is connected with a little pin.
- Rolo Chain: Similar to a cable chain, the rolo has symmetrical links that are typically perfectly round. Each link is joined to the next individually to create a strong chain. Rolo chains are very strong but they have a very unique look, with each round link very clearly visible. Some don’t like the look of this chain.
What’s the Best Type of Necklace Chains?
The answer to this question depends on what you consider ‘best’. This goes back to your purpose for buying the chain and what you think is aesthetically pleasing. Depending on your reason for buying the chain, there can be several ‘best’ types of chains. Here are some options:
- Strongest type of chain:
It’s always important to consider the strength of the chain, as this will ensure its longevity as well as determine whether the chain can hold heavy pendants. The strongest types of chains are those that contain interconnected links, which contribute to the chain’s flexibility.
Rigid chains (like snake chains) are more likely to break. Independently soldered links also contribute to a chain’s durability as they don’t pull apart and replacing a broken link is easier. With that said, some of the strongest types of chains include cable, curb, Figaro, mariner and rope chains. These chains hold pendants well, especially if they’re thick. Always consider the weight of the pendant and try to pair it with the appropriate chain, because not every pendant and chain will work well together.
- Most stylish looking chain:
This depends on your preference. If you’re looking for a chain that works well on its own, consider a more complex style like Spiga, puffed mariner, rope or Figaro. For men, thicker chains tend to look more stylish, while for women, thinner chains with a pendant are often the preferred choice.
- Most affordable chain:
The affordability of a chain is related to the materials used to make it, rather than its style. However, the most common styles used in inexpensive chains tend to be ball/bead chains, rolo chains and cable chains.
- Weakest Types of Chains
Chains become weak when they have limited flexibility, which causes the chain to kink and bend. This results in the links becoming weak and then breaking. Chains with flat thin links can also easily get damaged, and extra care must be taken to maintain them. Some of the weakest chains include herringbone, snake and omega chains. The ball/bead chain is also among the weakest chains as the narrow bars that hold the beads together can bend or break.
Best Metals for Necklace Chains
- Platinum: Platinum is durable but its also among the most expensive. Most people avoid this choice, if they’re on a budget. You can get a similar look with white gold.
- Gold: Gold is one of the most sought-after options for chains. Because gold comes in a variety of purity levels, there are more options in terms of durability and price. 14k and 18k gold are the most popular options, with 14k being cheaper and more durable than 18k. However, gold is still fairly soft, so there will have to be some upkeep to ensure that the chain lasts. Gold also comes in several colors, including yellow, white and rose.
- Silver: Silver chains are perfect for inexpensive costume jewelry. Most designers opt for 925 silver (also known as sterling silver) as it’s more durable than fine silver. However, it’s inevitable that silver chains will tarnish with time and will require periodic polishing to ensure that the chain remains shiny.
- Titanium: Inexpensive, light and highly durable, titanium has a slightly darker appearance than white gold or silver. Titanium chains also require less upkeep.
There are other metals such as stainless steel and tungsten carbide. When purchasing chains made of alternative metals, always consider the durability, price and appearance. Also watch out for zinc and nickel in the alloys, as these tend to be common allergens that cause reactions in people with metal sensitivities.