Finding the best Electric scooty battery price can be hard if you’re unaware of what features to look for especially that there are so many of them to find around. For this reason, we’ve put up a guide highlighting the top electric scooter battery 48v options in the category.
Our team has researched and reviewed these products to help you come up with a better decision.
Electric scooty battery price
User Guide to Electric Scooters and Electric Bikes: A Review of Advantages, Disadvantages, and Problems, with Advice, Tips, and Guidance for Use
Lead acid batteries
Electric scooters are commonly supplied with lead acid batteries. Electric scooters generally require four 12-volt batteries with a combined ampere-hour (AH) rating that varies, depending on cost. In May, 2015, an authorized dealer in Bangalore for a nationally reputed electric scooter company quoted a price of Rs.14,000 per set of 24 AH batteries, and Rs.19,000 per set of 33 AH batteries.
What’s the difference, besides the cost? The batteries with the higher AH rating have a greater range per charge, and will run a longer distance, overall, before they die out. The greater range is a big plus point if the owner has to commute longer distances and through heavy traffic. The higher cost is a big minus point if the battery overcharges and is ruined early in its life.
You can read more about issues related to batteries in the sections on Disadvantages, Charging, Practical notes, Range, and Cost Analysis. To navigate to these pages, either click on the key words or click on the headings at the top of this page.
Lithium ion batteries
New models of electric scooters come with lithium ion batteries, and some older models are now offered with a lithium ion battery option in place of the lead acid battery option. An advantage of the lithium ion batteries is that their lifespan is 1000-3000 charging cycles and 3-5 years. A disadvantage is the very high cost. Whereas a lead acid battery e-bike may be available for Rs.40,000 and below, the lithium ion battery e-ebikes may cost Rs.1 lakh and above.
E-bike range and power are greater with lithium ion batteries.
Electric Scooter Batteries
In this technical guide, you’ll learn everything there is to know about electric scooter batteries, including types, capacity ratings, how to prolong battery life, and proper use and storage.
Electric Scooter Batteries
The battery is your electric scooter’s “fuel tank.” It stores the energy that is consumed by the DC motor, lights, controller, and other accessories.
Most electric scooters will have some type of lithium ion-based battery pack due to their excellent energy density and longevity. Many electric scooters for kids and other inexpensive models contain lead-acid batteries. In a scooter, the battery pack is made of individual cells and electronics called a battery management system which keeps it operating safely.
Bigger battery packs have more capacity, measured in watt hours, and will let an electric scooter travel further. However, they also increase the size and weight of the scooter — making it less portable. Additionally, batteries are one of the most expensive components of the scooter and overall cost increases accordingly.
Types of Batteries
E-scooter battery packs are made of many individual battery cells. More specifically, they are made of 18650 cells, a size classification for lithium ion (Li-Ion) batteries with 18 mm x 65 mm cylindrical dimensions. Each 18650 cell in a battery pack is fairly unimpressive — generating an electric potential of only 3.5 volts (3.5 V) and having a capacity of 3 amp hours (3 A·h) or about 10 watt-hours (10 Wh).
To build a battery pack with hundreds or thousands of watt hours of capacity, many individual 18650 Li-ion cells are assembled together into a brick-like structure. The brick-like battery pack is monitored and regulated by an electronic circuit called a battery management system (BMS), which controls the flow of electricity into and out of the battery.
Li-Ion batteries have excellent energy density, the amount of energy stored per their physical weight. They also have excellent longevity meaning that they can be discharged and recharged or “cycled” many times and still maintain their storage capacity.
Li-ion actually refers to many battery chemistries that involve the lithium ion. Here is a short list below:
- Lithium manganese oxide (LiMn2O4); aka: IMR, LMO, Li-manganese
- Lithium manganese nickel (LiNiMnCoO2); aka INR, NMC
- Lithium nickel cobalt aluminum oxide (LiNiCoAlO2); aka NCA, Li-aluminum
- Lithium nickel cobalt oxide (LiCoO2); aka NCO
- Lithium cobalt oxide (LiCoO2); aka ICR, LCO, Li-cobalt
- Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4); aka IFR, LFP, Li-phosphate
Each of these battery chemistries represents a trade-off between safety, longevity, capacity, and current output.
Lithium Manganese (INR, NMC)
Fortunately, many quality electric scooters are using the INR battery chemistry — one of the safest chemistries. This battery gives high capacity and output current. The presence of manganese lowers the internal resistance of the battery, allowing high current output while maintaining low temperatures. Consequently, this reduces the chances of thermal runaway and fire.
Some electric scooters with INR chemistry include WePed GT 50e and Dualtron models.
Lead-acid is a very old battery chemistry that is commonly found in cars and some larger electric vehicles, like golf carts. They are also found in some electric scooters; most notably, inexpensive children’s scooters from companies like Razor.
Lead-acid batteries have the benefit of being inexpensive, but suffer from having very poor energy density, meaning that they weigh a lot compared to the amount of energy they store. In comparison, Li-ion batteries have about 10X the energy density compared to lead-acid batteries.
E-scooter battery capacity is rated in units of watt hours (abbreviated Wh), a measure of energy. This unit is quite easy to understand. For example, a battery with a 1 Wh rating stores sufficient energy to supply one watt of power for one hour.
More energy capacity means higher battery watt hours which translates to longer electric scooter range, for a given motor size. An average scooter will have a capacity of around 250 Wh and be able to travel about 10 miles at an average of 15 miles per hour. Extreme performance scooters can have a capacity reaching into the thousands of watt hours and ranges of up to 60 miles.
Individual Li-ion cells in an e-scooter battery pack are made by just a handful of different internationally-known companies. The highest quality cells are made by LG, Samsung, Panasonic, and Sanyo. These types of cells tend to be found only in battery packs of higher-end scooters.
Most budget and commuter electric scooters have battery packs made from generic Chinese-manufactured cells, which vary greatly in quality.
The difference between scooters with branded cells and generic Chinese ones is a greater guarantee of quality control with established brands. If that is not within your budget, then make sure you are buying a scooter from a reputable manufacturer who is using quality parts and has good quality control (QC) measures in place.
Some examples of companies that are likely to have good QC are Xiaomi and Segway.
Battery Management System
Though Li-ion 18650 cells have amazing benefits, they are less forgiving than other battery technologies and can explode if used improperly. It is for this reason that they are nearly always assembled into battery packs that have a battery management system.
The battery management system (BMS) is an electronic component that monitors the battery pack and controls charging and discharging. Li-ion batteries are designed to operate between about 2.5 to 4.0 V. Overcharging or completely discharging can shorten battery life or trigger dangerous thermal runaway conditions. The BMS should prevent overcharging. Many BMS also cut power before the battery is fully discharged in order to prolong life. Despite this, many riders still baby their batteries by never fully discharging them and also use special chargers to finely control charging speed and amount.
More sophisticated battery management systems will also monitor the temperature of the pack and trigger a cutoff if overheating occurs.
If you’re doing research on battery charging, you’re likely to encounter C-rate. C-rate describes how quickly the battery is being fully charged or discharged. For example, a C-rate of 1C means the battery is charged in one hour, 2C would mean fully charged in 0.5 hours, and 0.5C would mean fully charged in two hours. If you fully charged a 100 A·h battery using 100 A current, it would take a one hour and the C-rate would be 1C.
A typical Li-ion battery will be able to handle 300 to 500 charge/discharge cycles before diminishing in capacity. For an average electric scooter, this is 3000 to 10 000 miles! Keep in mind that “diminish in capacity” doesn’t mean “lose all capacity,” but means a noticeable drop of 10 to 20% that will continue to get worse. Modern battery management systems help to prolong the life of the battery and you shouldn’t worry too much about babying it.
However, if you’re keen on stretching the battery life as much as possible, there are some things you can do to exceed 500 cycles. These include:
- Don’t store your scooter fully charged or with the charger plugged in for prolonged periods. Keeping the battery topped off at its max voltage will diminish its life.
- Don’t store the electric scooter fully discharged. Li-ion batteries degrade when they drop below 2.5 V. Most manufacturers recommend to store scooters with a battery percentage that’s between 30 to 50% charged, and top them up to this level periodically for very long-term storage.
- Don’t operate the scooter battery in temperatures below 32 F° or above 113 F°.
- Charge your scooter at a lower C-rate, meaning charge the battery at a lower rate relative to its maximum capacity to preserve/improve battery life. Charging at a C-rate between 0.5C to 2C is optimal. Some of the fancier or high speed chargers let you control this.
WHAT SCOOTER SHOULD I BUY?
The focus of this site has always been to help scooterists find the best machine. This entire site is designed to be a comprehensive resource on every scooter from all the main manufacturers, but it still can be difficult to get started. This article will help you do just that by asking some of the key questions.
What displacement is right?
To get started, ask yourself what sort of power or engine size you’re after. Small scooters (50cc) will be good for 30-50mph, which means around town use only unless you’re crazy. There aren’t many scooters between 50cc and 125cc, which is where the mid sized scooter market starts (125-170cc). Mid-sized scooters add enough power to hang with traffic on backroads and slower highways (i.e. 50-70mph), but you have to move up to 250cc+ to be fully capable of cruising on highways with 60-70mph speed limits.
Opting for a bigger motor certainly adds power, but it also means a machine that is more expensive to buy, insure, maintain and fill with gas. Bigger scooters are also a bit more of handful for smaller riders looking for something light and nimble. So carefully consider what size of scooter meets your realistic needs, and then ask yourself if such a scooter also meets your budget. The challenge is might be finding the right balance between what’s practical economically and what gets you excited. Opting for a scooter that is impractically too small in a bid to save money often ends with dissatisfaction, while selecting a bigger machine than you need ends up being a costly lesson.
Why are you buying?
Consider what your main motivation is. If you’re buying because you’re a scooter enthusiast looking for a blast on two wheels then you probably already have a favorite brand and you’re not reading this article, so if you are reading this then maybe you’re buying a scooter for practical reasons.
The danger if you are buying a scooter to save money is to wrongly assume all scooters are economical and then purchase some attractive machine which might end up costing more to operate than you planned. I did just that when my wife and I purchased two mid sized scooters – a Vespa LX150 and a Yamaha BWS 125. We figured it would be a fun and cheap way to travel but once we actually got the scooters I realized that our combined gas usage was the same as just taking our car, plus any money saved by diverting wear and tear off the car was lost because we were spending an extra $70 per month on insurance for the scooters plus they were depreciating. Our car only cost us $2500 a few years earlier and the total depreciation on these two scooters by the time we sold was over $3500.
To put it simply, any scooter will save money if you’re buying it instead of a car. But if you’re buying a scooter in addition to your car then only a 50cc will really save enough money to be worthwhile. Even then you have to use it a decent amount. So the take away lesson here is that if you are buying a scooter for practical reasons then make sure it’ll really save money. To do that, you’ll want to think about which brands hold their resale value and what scooters cost the least to own and maintain. To answer that, start by mulling over the next question.
How long will you own it?
Purchase price is a big factor in any buying decision, but resale value is also important if you don’t plan on keeping it forever. The difference between the purchase price and the eventual resale price is what you really spent to own it.
Well known and highly regarded brands like Honda, Piaggio, Suzuki and Yamaha typically have very good resale value, so you can sell a scooter for over 50% of what you paid for it even after 5 years. Conversely, poorly known and lower quality brands like Chinese machines have very little resale value so the upfront price savings can be lost when you try to sell it. In between are brands like the Taiwanese (Kymco, Genuine, PGO, SYM) which depreciate at moderate rates. Vespa’s are another thing entirely, with depreciating typically quite slow except for the grand or so you lose when you roll it out of the showroom.
If you think you’re only going to own the scooter for a few years, stick with a trusted brand that will be easy to sell. Honda is the best in this regards, but Yamaha, Suzuki, Vespa, Piaggio and Aprilia sell pretty good as well. If you plan on owning it longer then a Taiwanese built machine (Kymco, Genuine, PGO, SYM) could be the right call because these brands make pretty good machines but they aren’t well known enough to have decent resale value. Over a time period of more than 5 years they can be cheaper in total cost.
Almost everyone would do well to stay away from Chinese scooters. They have no resale value yet they don’t last long enough to earn their purchase price. The only owners who can come out ahead with a Chinese machine are those who are willing to do quite a bit of wrenching if necessary. If you’re willing and eager to get your hands greasy and you can’t afford at least a Taiwan built machine, then a Chinese scooter will be an interesting experience if nothing else.
How old of a machine?See also
You might have seen some tempting 20 year old scooter on Craigslist for $200, which has you pondering where the optimal intersection is between age and price. Depreciation for scooters is typically about 50% in the first 5 years and then really slow after that. Even a machine from 1990 will probably fetch $500 if it’s running well, which is probably 50% of it’s new MSRP.
The lesson here is that you don’t save much money opting for scooters that are older than about 5-7 years. There are older scooters that are much cheaper, but these are typically not running or not running well, which is the real reason why the price is low. Consider that a 1995 Honda Dio typically sells for $800, while a 2007 Honda Ruckus goes for maybe $1000. Those extra $200 for a 11 year newer machine are very well spent.
So most people should look for machines that are somewhere between new and 7 years old depending on their budget. People with really small budgets and who are mechanically inclined can look for scooters that are non-running but supposedly ran well when they were parked 5-15 years ago. These machines are always a gamble, but the home mechanic can often get them running for under $200 so they’re a fun project if you buy them cheap and invest sparingly in them.
Making a short list
By now you should have narrowed down the engine size you’re after to a pretty small range and hopefully focused in on 1-3 manufacturers. The scooter market really isn’t that big, so if you also know roughly how old of a scooter you want to buy then you’re all set to go make a short list. If your list is 50cc scooters from Japanese brands sold from 2009 thru 2012 then you’re probably only looking at 4-5 machines.
So browse through the main pages for each brand your interested in to identify candidate models and then go read the individual pages for all the info. If you’re looking at 50cc then also consider if you want a 2-stroke or 4-stroke. Otherwise, if you’ve chosen your list based on practical criteria then now may be the right time to listen more to other side of your brain and select the machine that appeals to your passion. The scooter with the cool looks is probably going to make you happier than the one with 25% more storage. Buy the one you love and you won’t regret it.