How much does it cost to replace the igniter on a gas stove? You may need to repair your gas oven if the burner won’t light, if the burner won’t stay lit, if the oven bakes unevenly, if the self-cleaning cycle doesn’t work or if the oven temperature doesn’t correspond to the temperature setting. As with many home appliances, Gas stove top igniter replacement cost can be High and it’s important to weigh the cost of repair versus purchasing a new unit.
Gas stove top igniter replacement cost
Unless your oven needs significant repairs that require extra materials, your biggest costs will likely be labor. Oven repair people normally charge between $60 and $85 an hour and will typically spend an hour or two performing the necessary repairs, according to Cost Owl. Expect to pay at least $100 per visit.
You may need to replace parts on your gas oven, which the repair person will charge you for. Gaskets, the mechanical seal that keeps heat inside the oven, are commonly in need of replacement and cost between $15 and $45. Screws might need replacement. The igniter may also need to be replaced; igniters typically cost between $40 and $80. Ask your repair person about the cost of parts before you agree to any repairs.
Oven repair costs vary depending on where you live. According to Business Insider, New York City is the most expensive city in the country as of 2011, and labor costs are higher there due to the inflated cost of living, particularly in Manhattan. Harlingen, Texas, is the cheapest city in America, according to “Bloomberg Businessweek,” and labor costs are decidedly lower there. Consider your geographical location and the cost of living in your city before making any decisions about repairing your gas oven.
If your gas oven is damaged beyond repair, consider replacing it entirely. The cost of replacing a standard gas oven is between $747 for a basic model and $1,412 for a top-of-the-line unit, according to Homewyse. These prices include the cost of removing and disposing of the old oven, the price of the new oven and installation fees.
This DIY repair guide gives instructions on how to replace the spark igniter electrode for the surface burner on a freestanding gas or dual-fuel range, but can be adapted to a built-in range as well. Replace the spark igniter electrode with a manufacturer-approved replacement part if you see physical damage or if the spark won’t light the burner because the ceramic insulation below the electrode tip cracks.
This basic procedure works for Kenmore, Frigidaire, Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, GE, LG and Samsung ranges.Quick linksInstructionsTools required1/4-inch nut driverPhillips screwdriverSlot screwdriverWork glovesRepair difficultyTime required45 minutes or less
01.Shut off power and gasIf necessary, pull the range away from the wall to get access to the power outlet and gas supply valve. Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet and then close the gas supply shut-off valve.
02.Remove the grates, burner caps and burner headsRemove all the cooktop grates and then lift the gas burner caps off the burner heads. Set these parts aside.Using a 1/4-inch nut driver, remove any nuts that secure the gas burner heads in place. Remove the burner heads from the cooktop.Tip: Mark the burner caps with a note indicating their location (Left Front, Right Front, Left Rear, Right Rear).Remove the caps from the burners.Remove the screw from the burner head.Pull off the burner head.
03.Remove the cooktopRemove the screws that secure the top of the cooktop to the top of the burner orifice holders. To pop the cooktop out of the 2 mounting clips under its front edge, position a slot screwdriver or stiff putty knife between the front of the range frame and the cooktop, about 3″ from the side of the range. Push the tool straight into the gap and lift slightly to release the clip that holds that side of the cooktop. Repeat for the other side.Lift the front of the cooktop and then carefully remove the cooktop without disturbing the burner orifice holders. Set the cooktop aside.Remove the screws that hold down the cooktop.Release the clips that hold down the front of the cooktop.Lift up the front of the cooktop.Pull off the cooktop.
04.Remove the spark igniter electrodeCarefully disconnect the wire that’s attached to the bottom of the spark igniter electrode.Release the metal clip from the bottom of the gas burner orifice holder and remove the clip.Remove the spark igniter electrode from the burner orifice holder assembly and discard it.Pull the electrode wire.Remove the retaining clip.Remove the electrode.
05.Install the new spark electrodePush the new igniter electrode into the burner orifice holder assembly. Fasten it with the metal clip.Push the wire onto the connection spade at the bottom of the new electrode.
06.Reattach the cooktopPosition the cooktop on the top of the range and snap it into the mounting clips on the front lip of the range.Insert the screws into the holes that secure the cooktop to the gas burner tube orifice holders. You may need to move the burner tube orifice holders around slightly to line up the holes and insert the screws. Tighten all screws firmly.
07.Reinstall the burner heads, burner caps and gratesPosition the burner heads in the correct locations, screw them into place and tighten the screws firmly.Cover the burner heads with the burner caps in the correct locations.Set the grates into place on the cooktop,
08.Reconnect gas and power and slide the range into placePlug the range back into the wall outlet and the open the gas supply valve.Slide the range into position, making sure the rear foot of the range properly engages the anti-tip bracket.
Power options for stoves and ovens
The heat output from electric cooktops is measured in watts. Output varies from stove to stove and burner to burner, but the output generally falls somewhere between 1,200 watts for low heat on a small burner and 3,800 BTUs for high heat on a large burner, though we’ve seen outliers at both ends of the spectrum. There are different types of electric cooktops from which you can select:
Smoothtop (glass-ceramic cooktop)
These cooktops are made of smooth glass-ceramic with heating units under the surface. A built-in sensor lets you know when a burner is still hot. This is important with smooth electric cooking surfaces, because the burner doesn’t always turn red if the heat is low.
Keep in mind that this type of cooktop is prone to scratches, and not all cookware is safe to use on the surface (the appliance’s manual will give you those specifics).
These burners convert the electricity that runs into the coil into heat. These cooktops contain thermostat sensors that notify you when a burner is on, but not necessarily whether it is still hot. Electric coil stoves are notorious for uneven cooking because of uneven distribution of the coil.
In short, it is hard to keep the coil perfectly level, which can make all of the food in the pan slide to one side. In addition, electric coil stoves are slow to heat and slow to cool. But ranges with this type of cooktop are cheaper than comparable models.
Induction burners use the heat created from electromagnetic energy to cook your food. An element just below the surface of an induction cooktop creates a magnetic field. When you put a piece of cookware containing iron on top of that magnetic element, it causes a vibration of sorts that converts to heat through a series of magnetic interactions with iron (you can read more about the science behind induction here).
These cooktops are safer than gas or electric burners because they don’t use flames or direct heat — induction burners won’t start to heat if you put something on them that doesn’t contain magnetic material. Induction cooktops are also more efficient and heat things quicker than other types of burners (the ones we’ve tested have boiled a large pot of water in an average of 6 minutes).
There are a few downsides to induction cooktops. You have to make sure you have cookware that will work with the cooking surface, and ranges with induction burners tend to cost more money than comparable electric or gas ranges.
Electric ovens: This type of oven uses a heating element that is either visible on the top or bottom of the oven, or hidden. Our baking tests show that they often cook more evenly than their gas counterparts.
Both home and professional cooks have valued gas stovetops because of the how uniform the heat output is. An open flame surrounds the bottom of your cookware, which evenly distributes the heat around it. This heat output is measured in BTUs (British thermal units). Like electric models, the power range varies from model to model, but the output generally falls somewhere between 5,000 BTUs for low heat on a small burner and 18,000 BTUs for high heat on a large burner. We’ve seen burners on high-end ranges get as low as 800 BTUs and as high as 20,000 BTUs. If you’re a speedy cook, be aware that our cooking tests show gas cooktops tend to take longer to boil large pots of water than electric or induction cooktops.
When it comes to gas ovens, we’ve seen in our cook tests that they have a harder time producing even baking results than electric ovens.
Some ranges use two types of power: gas for the cooktop, and electric in the oven. These dual-fuel ranges are a good compromise for folks who want the direct heat of a gas burner but the even cooking of an electric oven. However, these hybrids cost more than traditional one-power-source ranges.
Freestanding ranges are designed to fit anywhere in a kitchen. Oven controls are often located on a back panel that raises up above the cooktop. These are less expensive than slide-in models.
These ranges don’t have a back panel and are meant to fit in flush with the surrounding countertops. Slide-in ranges are often more expensive than freestanding models because of the mechanics that go into putting all the controls up front.
Drop-in ranges are similar to slide-in models — they sit flush with the surrounding countertops and all the controls are located at the front of the unit. But this type of range looks like you dropped it between two cabinets because of a strip of cabinetry you place beneath the appliance.
The search for an oven or range can resemble a visit to a car dealership — there are always opportunities to upgrade. Assess your needs and decide if these bonus features are worth throwing down more money for an appliance.
Companies have become more proactive in including wireless capabilities such as Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and near-field communication (NFC) in their ovens and stoves so you can control your appliance from your smartphone. For example, you could begin to preheat your Wi-Fi-enabled oven on your way home from the grocery store, so it’s ready for your frozen pizza by the time you get home.
Manufacturers have also started to connect appliances with smart-home products to add some automation and voice control in the kitchen. For example, GE’s Wi-Fi-connected ranges work with Alex and Google Assistant, so you can give voice commands to control your appliance. And Jenn-Air wall ovens work with Nest Learning Thermostats ($269 at Amazon) so you can automatically lower your home’s temperature when the ovens get hot.
Convection fans are built into the back of oven walls. They circulate the heat in the oven so hot air is more evenly dispersed, which means your food will bake more evenly. You’d want convection fans if you’re baking food like cookies on more than one oven rack at the same time. Midprice ovens will have at least one convection fan. Some ovens have what’s called “true” or “European” convection, which means there’s a heating element that surrounds the fan that warms the air as the fan blows. Read more about the science of convection here.
Special cooking modes
Your basic oven can bake and broil. But as the price for ovens increases, you’ll see that there are more cooking options. For example, ovens with convection fans will have modes for convection baking and convection roasting, which will enable the fans and heating elements. Some ovens also come with cook settings for specific foods, such as pizza or turkey, or food preparation methods, like dehydration or bread proofing.
Bottom drawers (baking/warming/broiling)
Some ranges come with a bottom drawer that can serve one of many purposes depending on the model. Some range ovens offer a baking drawer, which enables a person to use the main oven to roast or broil, and the baking drawer for smaller dishes, so you can cook more than one thing at the same time using different temperatures. A warming drawer will keep food warm, but it won’t cook the food. Some ovens have a broiler drawer, which functions like a traditional broiler and must be watched just as closely to ensure that food does not burn.
Temperature probes plug into the wall of your oven, and you use them to monitor the internal temperature of meat as it cooks. The temperature displays on the control panel of your oven, so you don’t have to open the door to see if your dish is done.
Double ovens in conventional space
The ovens on some ranges have dual baking chambers, which give you the flexibility of double wall ovens without the need for more space. These ovens allow the convenience of simultaneous cooking at different temperatures. Some ovens come with a divider that allows you to split your single oven into two unique temperature zones that will remain separate as long as the divider is in place.